This part of the Migration birds trail goes almost entirely through the Dutch National Park of Hoge Veluwe. I stopped just outside Otterlo on the previous hike. From there, I first walk a short distance through the Zanding nature reserve. Then I continue my journey through the beautiful and diverse National Park. I end the hike in Hoenderloo.

Hiking map Migration birds trail: Otterlo - Hoenderloo
Hiking map Migration birds trail: Otterlo – Hoenderloo

The Zanding nature reserve

I have been trying to plan the Migration birds trail hike through the Hoge Veluwe National Park for ages. Every time, the weather is bad, or I just don’t get around to it. At the beginning of December (2024), I take a chance, despite another poor weather forecast. I keep my umbrella at hand.

When I get off the bus in Otterlo, it is indeed a bit drizzly. First, I walk through the Otterlo forest. I still need my umbrella here. It all looks a bit grey.

Not much later, I arrive at the Zanding nature reserve. The rain has stopped by now. Despite the cloudiness, I have a beautiful view over the sandy plains.

Now on to the entrance gate of the Hoge Veluwe. To get there, I have to walk through the centre of Otterlo. I pass the Dutch Tile Museum and a small church in the middle of the village.


Hoge Veluwe National Park

At quarter past nine, I arrive at the entrance to the Hoge Veluwe National Park. The park has just opened at 9:00 and I have until 6:00 in the afternoon. That’s more than enough time for me. A ticket costs €13.05. That’s quite pricey, so I try to stay in the park as long as possible. The cashier tells me that the Kröller-Müller Museum is closed today (Monday), but I wasn’t planning on going there anyway. The Museonder is open, though, and I’ll be passing by there. Maybe I’ll take a look inside the museum.

On this drizzly Monday, it is very quiet in the park and I am already feasting my eyes. I walk off the main road onto a nice winding path. I wonder if I can remember anything about the park from the past. I visited it several times when I was little, but I can only vaguely remember the white rental bikes, the sculpture park at the Kröller-Müller Museum and the Museonder museum.

Not far from the entrance, you will find the famous white bicycles. You can use these free of charge within the park. You can return the bicycles at the three entrances in Otterlo, Hoenderloo and Schaarsbergen when you leave the park.


Other trail guide about this region


Suddenly, I hear a rustling behind me, followed by something sprinting away. No idea what kind of animal it was, maybe a red deer! That’s about the only animal I encounter today.

I take a break overlooking a large grassy plain.

Then I continue along the trail, which winds its way along charming paths with occasional steep inclines. Unfortunately, most of the trees have lost their leaves, but the ferns more than make up for this with their beautiful rust-brown colour.

Then I arrive at the gardens next to the Kröller-Müller Museum. In the distance, I can see the sculpture park. I recognise the red structure of one of the artworks from back in the day.


Uphill, downhill

After the Kröller-Müller Museum, I arrive at the Pampelse Zand. Here I have a beautiful view over the wide sandy plains. I only walk along the plains and mainly go along the edge of the forest.

The common buzzard is one of the few birds I encounter today. These birds love open landscapes with forest edges. Many parts of the Hoge Veluwe meet this requirement and are very suitable for buzzards.

Common buzzard
The buzzard is the most common bird of prey in the Netherlands and can be found throughout the country. In open farmland, you often see them sitting on a post or fence. Or you see them circling high in the sky.

The colours of common buzzards vary greatly, from dark brown to grey and even almost white. They make a meowing sound.

Buzzards nest in April-May, with one clutch per year of 2 to 4 eggs. The eggs are whitish in colour with brown speckles.

common buzzard

Source (in Dutch): Vogelbescherming

On this grey day, I encounter few birds. It is not the time of year to see many species. Below is the checklist of this hike.

Birds seen between Otterlo and Hoenderloo
✔ Carrion crow✔ Eurasian blue tit✔ Grey heron
✔ Common blackbird✔ Eurasian collared dove✔ Mallard
✔ Common buzzard✔ Eurasian jay✔ Northern raven (only sound)
✔ Common chaffinch✔ Goldcrest
✔ Common wood pigeon✔ Great tit

Then the trail leads me to the highest point in the park: French Mountain (Hill). What a breathtaking view. I go up and down hill, over charming little steps and paths.

I have arrived at the Museonder museum and there is not a soul in sight. The Park Pavilion is deserted on this quiet day. I continue my hike and decide to visit the museum another time. A good reason to come back.


Hunting lodge Sint Hubertus

After a few more paths through the forest and another sandy plain, the landscape changes slightly. This part of the National Park looks more like a country park with ponds and footpaths. Further on, I see the tower of Hunting lodge Sint Hubertus looming up. The trail turns away from the hunting lodge. That’s a pity, as I would have liked to see the lodge up close. According to the trail guide, I was supposed to pass right by it.

The trail takes me past some marshlands that add a touch of colour to the scenery. The sun is actually coming out, which makes this trail even more pleasant. I arrive at the Pumping house, which is also a watchtower. I don’t climb the tower, but continue straight on along the adjacent boardwalk. I love boardwalks! I wind my way through the marshlands.

Then the pond at Hunting lodge Sint Hubertus comes back into view and I get closer to the building. I even walk through the garden for a moment. The hunting lodge is a remarkable building designed by the famous Hendrik Berlage.

From the hunting lodge, it is not far to the exit at Hoenderloo. At least, it does not seem far on the map, but it is a little further than I thought. Fortunately, the sun is still shining and I walk a little faster towards the exit. In the centre of Hoenderloo, I take the bus back home.


Final thoughts

The Hoge Veluwe National Park is a stunningly beautiful park. You can spend hours exploring its diverse natural surroundings or combine your walk or cycle ride with a visit to a museum. You may come face to face with large grazers, wild boars or red deer. Unfortunately, I didn’t encounter any.

In a different season or with better weather, I would definitely have given this part of the Migration birds trail between Otterlo and Hoenderloo a five star rating.

Tip: The Veluwe Zwerfpad regional trail has three sections through the Hoge Veluwe National Park. These sections go from one entrance gate to the other (or vice versa): Otterlo – Hoenderloo, Hoenderloo – Schaarsbergen and Schaarsbergen – Otterlo.

More info:

Trail: Section 17 Long distance trail 2: Migration birds trail
Where: from Otterlo to Hoenderloo, Gelderland, the Netherlands.
No. of km: +/- 19.5 km
Hiking date: 2 December 2024
Materials used in illustrations: coloured pencils for the map and watercolour paints for the other illustrations
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Trail guide:

🚌 Info public transport:
  • starting point: busstop ‘t Lage Veld, Otterlo – bus 105 between Barneveld and Arnhem
  • ending point: busstop Centrum, Hoenderloo – bus 108 between Apeldoorn and station Ede-Wageningen

More hikes in the rain

Hiking in the rain is not really my cup of tea. I don’t like walking in soaking wet clothes or wearing rain gear. It’s also difficult to take photos in the rain. Sometimes I do try to go hiking in bad weather. Read about my experiences below.


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