At last, I’m setting off on a new long-distance hiking trail. The last trail I completed was the Southern Waterline trail, and now it’s the turn of the Old Dutch Waterline trail! The trail guide has been sitting on my shelf for months. Today I’m hiking the section from Loevestein Castle to Gorinchem, but in the opposite direction.
The Old Dutch Water Line consists of a collection of fortified towns and forts in the parts of the Green Heart located mainly in the provinces of South and North Holland in the Netherlands. The Waterline was created during the French invasion in the 17th century to defend the major cities in the west of Holland. The fortified towns were founded in strategically defensible locations, such as along a river. Sections between the fortified towns and other defensive works could be flooded. The water was deep enough to prevent men or horses from crossing, yet shallow enough to prevent boats from passing through. The year 2022 marked the 350th anniversary of the Old Dutch Waterline.
Later, the Waterline was replaced by the Defence Line of Amsterdam and the New Dutch Waterline, which was also intended to defend the city of Utrecht. This new line is situated further east within the Green Heart. It consists mainly of forts, lunettes and batteries.
The Old Dutch Waterline trail passes through many of the old fortified towns, such as Gorinchem, Nieuwpoort and Woerden, and runs between them through the area that could be flooded. Along the way, you’ll come across more remnants of the Old Dutch Waterline.
Along the fortified walls in Gorinchem
I’ll start the trail once the ferry season for Loevestein Castle has begun. It’s harder to get to Loevestein Castle in winter. In any case, the castle is difficult to reach by public transport; there is no bus stop nearby. I’m doing the first section in the opposite direction because the ferry to and from Loevestein Castle doesn’t start until 10:00. I prefer to set off as early as possible, partly because it’s going to be a hot day.
I’m starting the trail at the train station in Gorinchem. There’s an information panel here about the same trail, but it’s a bit outdated. The section I’m doing today isn’t actually on it. Fortunately, the trail has been completely updated and is marked in both directions.
I walk towards the old fortified town, cutting straight through it first. I pass the lovely market square with Gorcum Museum and two churches. At the Nooit Volmaakt (Never Perfect) windmill, I walk up onto the town walls. This part of the fortified wall is a sort of park.
When you see the access road, you really can tell that this is a fortified town with earthen walls and a canal. In the distance, I see another windmill: Korenmolen de Hoop (Hope Corn Mill). What a lovely sight!
I walk right past the windmill and then head towards the only remaining city gate, known as the Dalem Gate.
Gorinchem has, of course, existed for longer than the time of the Old Dutch Waterline. The first earthen ramparts were constructed in the 13th century. In the 14th century, the settlement was granted town status and the ramparts were reinforced with stone walls. By the 16th century, the ramparts and walls had become obsolete, and a new fortification wall was built around the town. This is what is now the current fortified wall.
In the 17th century, following the Eighty Years’ War, Gorinchem became part of the Old Dutch Waterline. Together with Woudrichem and Loevestein Castle, it formed a defensive triangle. The town was expanded to include bastions, city gates, a defensive canal and stone sentinels.
In 2021, Gorinchem was named the most beautiful fortified town in the Netherlands.
Sources (in Dutch): Oude Hollandse Waterlinie en Wikipedia
I’m walking towards the marina to catch the ferry to Woudrichem.
Along the fortified walls in Woudrichem
At the Veerhaven in Woudrichem, I stop for a moment to take in the beautiful surroundings. What a lovely little old marina.
After my break, I take a detour from the trail and walk along the fortified walls first. This fortified town is perhaps even more beautiful than Gorinchem.
The first town wall, complete with towers and gates, was built around Woudrichem in the 14th century. During the Eighty Years’ War, the town was reinforced and expanded with a fortified wall featuring seven bastions and other fortifications. The Prison Gate is the only remaining town gate.
The town managed to remain out of French hands during the disastrous year of 1672 by flooding the land surrounding it. However, during the Napoleonic era, the town was captured because the flooded area had frozen over, allowing the troops to cross easily over the ice.
Sources (in Dutch): Oude Hollandse Waterlinie en Wikipedia
After the detour over the walls, I get back on the trail and leave the fortified town behind me.
Next comes a stretch along the dike, with a view of the Afgedamde Maas river in the distance and past the town of Rijswijk behind the dike. Not long after, I can leave the dike and take a quick look at a small beach. I’m glad to be off the dike, as it’s busy with cyclists.
Struikwaard Nature reserve
So I head back up onto the dike, but not for long, as I spot a fence leading to the Struikwaard nature reserve. This nature reserve isn’t part of the trail, but it looks really lovely, so I deviate from the trail once again. I don’t regret it at all – what a beautiful little nature reserve.
I pick up the trail again at the sluice of the Afgedamde Maas river. Nearby, on the other side of the road, there’s a lovely wooden shoes trail called the Jorden trail. I’ve written a blog post about it before.
Other trail guide about the same region
Munnikenland and Loevestein Castle
I then arrive at the wide-open nature reserve of Munnikenland. Unfortunately, this section of the trail also follows paved paths. It’s still quite a way to Loevestein Castle, though I can see the castle on the horizon.
On my way, I encounter a grumpy bull that crosses my path. I keep my distance until it’s out of sight, since it seems to be a bull. Luckily he is mostly minding his own business.
Besides cattle, there are also wild horses here. I mainly see them in the distance.
Near Loevestein Castle, I deviate from the trail again, as I want to walk through the floodplains for a bit. There’s a sea of yellow flowers in the floodplains, with the Waal river on the horizon.
Near the castle, I leave the floodplains and take a quick look inside the gate, but I don’t go any further into the castle grounds. I walk a little way past the castle, as the floodplains are also very beautiful there.
Loevestein Castle was built by Knight Dirc Loef van Horne in the medieval period. In the 16th century, on the initiative of William of Orange, the castle was extended to include fortifications. These consist of a pentagonal walls, ultimately comprising four bastions and one half-bastion. The layout of the fortifications remains intact.
In 1673, a year after the French army’s invasion, Loevestein Castle, together with Gorinchem and Woudrichem, became part of the Dutch Waterline as a defensive triangle.
The most famous story about Loevestein Castle is undoubtedly Hugo de Groot’s escape in a book chest. You can read more about this and other historical events on the Loevestein Castle website.
Source (in Dutch): Slot Loevestein
I’m waiting on the dock with a bunch of cyclists until the ferry arrives to take us back to Gorinchem.
Final thoughts
This trail was super, but I particularly enjoyed the sections I added myself, such as the detour around the walls in Woudrichem, the Struikwaard nature reserve and the floodplains near Loevestein Castle. The trail itself mainly follows straight, paved paths, which starts to feel rather monotonous after a while.
The section along Gorinchem’s fortified walls, which is part of the trail, is also very beautiful.
Tip: the Waterline trail (long distance trail 17) follows much of the same trail but is linked to the New Dutch Waterline. The Wooden shoes trail called Jorden trail is nearby and very lovely.
More info:
Trail: Old Dutch Waterline trail – Section 1Where: from Gorinchem to Slot Loevestein, Zuid-holland, Noord-Brabant and Gelderland, the Netherlands (opposite direction)
No. of km: +/- 17.5 km
Hiking date: 4 July 2025
Materials used in illustrations: coloured pencils for the map and watercolour paints for the other illustration
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
- starting point: Loevestein Castle is difficult to reach by public transport. It is best to start in Gorinchem or Woudrichem, or park at Loevestein Castle.
- To Gorinchem: Gorinchem train station
- To Woudrichem: bus stop het Rondeel, Woudrichem – bus 181 between Gorinchem and Den Bosch
More hikes with a ferry crossing
On the first section of the Old Dutch Waterline trail, you’ll need to take a short ferry trip. On the hikes below, a ferry will also take you to the other side of the water.
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